Bangkok and Beyond

Alright there blog faithfuls, here we are at the next update. Albeit belated, the last few weeks have settled into a pleasant rhythm of life, one that leaves me wanting less to be on the internets. But I will deliver travel tidbits as promised to confirm that I am in fact well and beyond question having a wonderful time.

A boat ride and a lingering downpouring rain day of delay delay at the train station brought a bit of adventure to shake the islands off along the way. Before too soon I found myself in the depths of one of the worlds largest population centers; not really my forte. But fret not, as I was not alone. By no small feat, Levi and I were still chums. In addition we picked up a new friend, Kelly by making him miss his train and subsequently bonding over the hilarity of him being ridiculed/assisted by a monk to get a new train ticket.

    Silom lunch time with Kelly and Levi

There really wasn't much I found redeeming about Bangkok to be honest, it was loud and the less savory issues of the Thai tourism were brought into full focus. Not to say I didn't have a good time, I just don't like cities. The highlight was most definitely the neighborhood of Bangkok we stayed in called Silom. It was nice compared to the trustifarian and frat boy slum of Ko San Road, the traditional backpacker hangout.
 By far crown jewel of this new playground was diving into the cultural deep end of the Silom Lunch market, where I could count on one hand the number of tourists amongst hundreds of everyday lunch and go nine-to-five Thais. Siting on long benches under florescent light, the crowded open air market let us sample foods that we had no name for, but loved anyway.












 Lunch market fried dough vendor makin' the magic happen
                                                                                                             



Other highlights of the BKK involved a trip to the government super-complex to get visas for my cohorts, which was more fun than I could have ever imagined, including performance art drink preparation and foot massage available. As well as repeated visits to the gastronomic and visual overload that was Chinatown at night. From glowing red lanterns, roasted chestnuts and foreign arrangements of various bit of animals, China town was something to let wash over you as you wander narrow crowded alleyways packed with people.

The Bangkok binge came to an end with our trio spliting up. Levi to Cambodia to live on a farm and Kelly and I north to Sukothai to see the some epic ruins. This was accomplished by yet another train ride, as I said they are not always on time but pleasant enough if you have the patience for delay.

Sukothai was the capitol of Siam for about two centuries starting in the 13th. There are now a couple of parks where bustling cities once stood where tourists such as myself gawk at the ruins. The vast majority of the ruins are wats (temples) with statues of the Buddha in classic postures. The first park, in old Sukothai was easy enough to walk around in a day, taking pictures and imagining all the people that lived in the spaces between the brick temples, in homes that did not stand the test of time as well. The park was peaceful enough, though you could tell full well that many people were there to get it checked off the list of sights, breezing though just long enough to snap a quick photo.

Kelly and I along with a new friend from France named Adeline tended towards lingering in the soft grass under trees, looking up at crumbling brick structures and talking about life. It was kind of erie being faced with the crumbles of a city, all that was left behind of peoples lives to be remembered slowly turning back to dirt.
The town of New Sukothai was pleasant and sleepy compared to the metropolis, and we settled to a sleepy guest house run by a warm welcoming Thai family.
The second day we sent ourselves out to another park about an hour by bus called Si Satchanalai, during the same period this was a manufacturing hub that produced pottery prized throughout the world. The park was what seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, with few tourists to our surprise. Bicycles were rented to explore the larger park with a varying topography and wats on


Ade and myself hangin' at the Historical Park





hills with huge flocks of birds. While waiting for our bus home we met a character of epic proportions, what I think

Gollum would be like if he was Thai and not a total murderous jerk with an attitude problem. This fellow had old tattoos on his arms, not a tooth in his mouth and a bicycle with a motorbike chain on it. Positively delighted by the digital camera, we laughed and took turned taking pictures and showing him his face on the screen to his elation and delight. He was quite possibly the happiest person I have ever met.

After the history lesson and Bangkok detox, Kelly and I headed north back to my old stomping ground of Chaingmai, where I became the newest rock climbing bum resident, killing time awaiting
an opening at a nearby farm to host me for my very last week in Thailand. It's really quite interesting how very un-alone I've been while traveling despite coming here with little plans and no companions. Guess that's just the magic of travel.












All the pictures with people in them are by Kelly and his fancy pants camera and talent for digital likeness capture. 

This Island Life

Greetings and warm salutations blogigans!

The life and times of Bridget have involved a southern movement through Thailand, ending up on the islands. After meeting the one and only Levi in the Bangkok train station. Which took a bit of searching, as I was looking for a Manson-esque hobo of Scandinavian origin. But was pleasantly surprised as the relatively clean-cut farang I found.

This is the fellow in question at the beach gun show.

The trains here are quite pleasant, and dirt cheap. On the overnight train from Chiangmai I had weird dreams centered around the movie Spirited Away. As the orange interior of the clamoring near empty car at night cast a similar image.  Levi and I had a wonderful breakfast of noodle soup and boarded a third-class train south.
By early afternoon we had made it to the coastal town of Cha am. A popular destination for Thai weekend warriors. From the station we made a straight shot to the beach, drinking up the warm sun and briny water like we had never known it to exist, only to find it open for the taking. Slurping coconuts and eating seafood filled the evening, and Levi was delighted at all the Scandinavian tourists present with their awesome beach ware.
After a lovely night's stay, fried dough and sickly sweet coffee met us for breakfast on the beach. To then hop on the train again, bound for Prachuap Khiri Khan. Approaching from the north, the cliffs and sea were impressive, with a temple perched on the top of a steep mount. This town now, with more fishermen than sunbathers. I found it's pace sleepy and inviting with more Thais than tourists on the whole. Early in the morning we set off for a climb to the top of the monkey temple Wat Thammikaram, where our guide book warned of murderous monkey hordes that would just as soon as terrorize you and take all your worth. Prepared we started the climb up 390 steps, only to find the monkeys docile enough. You know, as far as wild temple monkeys go. We were then rewarded by a spectacular view of the bay and town.

The winds blew us south, yet again. This time to the landlocked town of Chumphon. Even further off the tourist radar, we waited a few hours there before our night boat to the islands. We found a most wonderous fresh food market. My companion and I where in plant/farm geek heaven. Stacks high of vegetables I could only guess at. The ubiquitous yard long beans wrapped in bundles, mountains of garlic, fruit and fresh greens likely picked that day unloaded from trucks in an melee of trucks, motorbikes and people.
That's the secret to the wonder of street food,  no fridges means it has to be fresh. Plus they make it right in front of you, eliminating the mystery of the preparation as well as fridge-based science experiments. I have not been disappointed or gotten ill yet from a street food adventure. Most of the time I'm in a blissed out food stupor by the end, marveling at the beautiful meal given to me in the most simple of setting. I eat like a king and the locals love to watch my red faced tears of joy as I try to finish a whole plate of "Thai Spicy" fish curry, enjoying every moment of it. Possibly because of capsaicin-induced halucinations.
At last, we were on a boat island bound. The overnight cargo boat we boarded was a pleasant adventure, and felt pretty legit. Watching the lights of small fishing boats like so many stars on the top deck moving along a river to the sea. I slept deep and long on the rocking boat to arrive before sunrise on Ko Tao.
 The smallest of the three islands we visited, the main attraction is world-class scuba diving. Interestingly enough Tao is Thai for turtle, and this island was once a prison. But now droves of young, ambitious tourists come to sun, dive and be obnoxious. Three nights was more than enough, as the tourist vibe and serious lack of street food wore on the soul. We did find some beauty in the east side of the island that we hiked over to, where we found a wonderful sunrise, impressive rock and almost no people, all a 20 min hike from the epicenter of tourist-land. The award for best street food on the island undoubtedly went to a woman who made us a plate of som_tam requested Thai spicy. With a laugh, she made us a face meltingly delicious dish. It hurt so good.
A short boat took us to the backpacker island of Ko Phanganan, larger than Tao with more Thais and tourists. It proved to be a play in balance between blaring techno music to remote island getaway. Accommodations at a beachside bungalow made me feel spoiled and recharged, while bicycle rentals of some super legit mountain bikes fed the bike geek's soul. Left with just a little bit of longing to linger but a need  to move on we again hit the high seas for the Ko Samui.

The biggest and badest of them all, with huge hotels and a populations approximately the size of Corvallis we made an effort to filter out the tourist crap and settle in for five days of island life in a small town in the northeast. A bungalow with easy beach access, an amazing food stand with a one-two punch of some thai home cooking and fried bananas made a great time of the stay.  It was also close to a most interesting attraction, lithic formations that would likely make your grandmother blush. Which coincidentally enough also had a cool reggae bar nearby hidden amongst the rocks, go fig. Either way, paired with Japanese tourists and coconut caramels, it was hard sight to pass up. Touring further around the island gave sights of farms and backroads, lending an erie familiarity to what I think parts of Hawaii would be like.
All and all, I've done it: come back from the south of Thailand unscathed and a little tanner to boot. Seen what needed to be, now I may leave the madness for lands to the north yet again.